Theraphosidae · Theraphosidae
Tarantula
A group guide to pet tarantulas, the world's biggest spiders. Common New World species such as the Chilean rose and Mexican red-knee are hardy, quiet display pets. Match the setup to the species, leave molting spiders alone, and keep handling to a minimum. Old World species are fast, defensive and best for experienced keepers.
- Group
- Invertebrates
- Difficulty
- Beginner
- Adult size
- typically 4–7 in leg span, depending on species
- Lifespan
- females 12–30+ years; males 3–8 years (species-dependent)
Evidence BZoo or institutional guideline (lowest grade of its care-critical sections) · Reviewed 2026-10-24 by Novel Fauna · Evidence graded 2026-10-25
Overview
Tarantulas (family Theraphosidae) are the largest spiders in the world 3. They are solitary, mostly nocturnal, and kept mainly as display pets 1. Many common species are hardy and slow-moving, which makes them good for beginners who follow basic husbandry 1. University of Illinois zoo-medicine specialist Dr. Krista Keller names the Chilean rose and the Mexican red-kneed tarantula as the most common pet species and calls them "pretty easy keepers" 2.
This is a group guide. Care varies by species, so check what your tarantula needs, especially whether it lives on the ground, burrows or climbs 1.
Natural history
Tarantulas live in warm areas on every continent except Antarctica, but most are found in South America 3. Their habitats include rainforest, desert and scrubland 3:
- Burrowers dig deep, silk-lined burrows.
- Ground dwellers shelter under rocks, logs or bark.
- Tree dwellers live in webbed retreats in trees.
They use silk to build a home, a molting mat or to handle food, not to snare prey 3. They are nocturnal ambush hunters of insects, other spiders and small vertebrates 3.
New World vs. Old World. Many tarantulas, including New World genera such as Brachypelma and Grammostola, flick barbed urticating hairs from the abdomen when disturbed 13. Asian and African (Old World) species lack these hairs 3. They rely on speed and defense instead and have more medically significant venom 1.
Enclosure
- Match the species 1:
- Terrestrial. Floor space about 3 to 4 times the leg span, with low height to prevent falls. Interior height should be no more than 1.5 times the leg span.
- Arboreal. A taller enclosure with vertical cork bark or tubes.
- Burrowers. Deep, compactable substrate, 4 to 8 inches or more.
- Secure lid. Many tarantulas climb glass, so use a tight-fitting, locking, well-ventilated lid 12.
- Hide. Provide at least one snug hide, such as cork bark, a half log or a flower pot on its side 12.
- Placement. Choose a quiet, dim spot away from commotion and bright light 2.
- Décor. Arrange any rocks so they can't fall on the spider and the spider can't fall from them 2.
- One per enclosure. Tarantulas are solitary and may eat each other 13.
Temperature & lighting
Tree of Life gives an ambient range of 70–78°F, and most species do well at normal room temperatures in that range 1. Dr. Keller says most tarantulas enjoy 70–85°F 2. Keep a thermometer in the tank 2.
Humidity
- Arid and grassland species such as Grammostola and Brachypelma: mostly dry substrate, good ventilation and a water dish, at about 50–60% relative humidity 1.
- Tropical species: slightly moist lower substrate with excellent cross-ventilation, at about 65–80% humidity depending on species 1.
Always provide a shallow water dish 1. Deep dishes can drown a tarantula, so keep it low and refill it daily 2.
Substrate
Use coconut fiber (coir), unfertilized topsoil, peat or mixes, free of pesticides and fertilizers 12. Spot-clean routinely and change the substrate fully every 6 to 12 months, or sooner if it is soiled or moldy 1.
Diet & supplementation
- Prey. Feed captive-bred insects such as crickets, dubia roaches and locusts, with occasional mealworms or superworms 1. Avoid wild-caught insects 1. Gut-load feeders before offering them 2.
- Size. Prey should be no larger than the tarantula's abdomen 1.
- Schedule. Feed spiderlings and juveniles about three times a week. Feed subadults and adults every 7 to 14 days 1.
- Remove leftovers. Don't leave several crickets loose all week, because hungry prey can bite and injure a tarantula 2. Remove uneaten prey within 24 hours, and immediately if a molt is coming 1.
- No supplements needed. No vitamin or mineral dusting is recommended in our sources. Focus on healthy, gut-loaded prey 12.
Handling & temperament
Minimal to no handling is best 1. Falls can injure tarantulas, and stress can make them ill 1. To move one, use the catch-cup method: gently guide it into a deli cup with a soft brush, then cover the cup 1.
- Urticating hairs can irritate skin and eyes. Use gloves and keep your face away. Seek medical care if hairs get in your eyes 1.
- Bites are rare with proper care 1. Most tarantula venom is about as potent as a bee sting 3. Clean minor wounds and seek medical care for severe reactions 1.
- Old World species, such as Poecilotheria, are fast and defensive, with more medically significant venom. Don't handle them 1.
Health
Molting. Before a molt, a tarantula may stop eating, darken (especially on the abdomen), slow down and spin a molt mat 1. This fast is normal 2. During the molt it lies on its back and should not be moved. That isn't death 2. Don't feed or disturb it 1. After the molt, wait until the fangs harden before feeding: typically 7 to 14 days for adults and 3 to 7 days for juveniles 1.
Common issues
- Dehydration. Signs are a sunken abdomen, lethargy and a "death curl" 1.
- Molting problems 12.
- Oral nematodes. Signs are white material around the mouthparts and decreased appetite. Captive-hatched tarantulas are less likely to have them, and a vet can remove them under anesthesia 2.
- Injuries with hemolymph (blood) loss. Significant bleeding is an emergency 1.
- Mold or mites, usually from husbandry problems 1.
- Tremors or uncoordinated movement, which needs a vet assessment 1.
When to see a vet
See an exotics vet for any of these 1:
- a juvenile that has fasted more than 6–8 weeks
- weight loss or lethargy
- bleeding
- a stuck molt
- foul odor or feeding difficulty
- tremors
Bring the spider in a secure, ventilated container with its hide, plus its most recent shed if you have one 1.
Breeding overview
Once mature, a male leaves his burrow to find a female by scent, and the pair performs a courtship dance 3. Males of many species have leg spurs to hold back the female's fangs during mating 3. Males usually die within months of mating, while females can produce eggs for decades 3. The female guards her eggs in a silk cocoon 3. Tarantulas may eat each other 1, so pairing is risky and best left to experienced keepers.
Legal & ethics
- CITES. Many tarantulas have been over-collected for the pet trade and are protected under CITES 3.
- Choose captive-bred. Captive-hatched spiders are less likely to carry oral nematodes 2. Buying them also avoids feeding illegal collection. The San Diego Zoo cares for tarantulas confiscated from a smuggling case 3.
Sources
- Tarantula Care · Tree of Life Exotic Pet Medical Center
- Care and Keeping of Tarantulas · University of Illinois College of Veterinary Medicine
- Tarantula · San Diego Zoo Wildlife Alliance
- CITES listing: Brachypelma hamorii · Species+ (UNEP-WCMC and CITES Secretariat)
- CITES listing: Poecilotheria regalis · Species+ (UNEP-WCMC and CITES Secretariat)
Last reviewed 2026-10-24 by Novel Fauna. This guide is general husbandry information, not veterinary advice. When an animal is sick, see a veterinarian experienced with exotic animals.
Revision history
- Library complete: 20 more cited guides (70 total), Invertebrates group, care targets migration 0020, source title fixes
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Evidence grades: Novel Fauna editorial: source classification, not yet expert-reviewed, 2026-10-25. What the grades mean.